Teen and Transgender Comparative Study
Essay by Andrew Womack
The series is a correlation of two stages of transformation, pairing teen girls (12-14) with like adult male-to-female transsexuals. The Teen and Transgender Comparative Study is currently showing at The Hammer Museum in Nine Lives, curated by Ali Subotnick. The series is part of a larger project titled The Girl Studies, which includes a short 35mm film titled American Minor that was featured at Director’s Fortnight at Cannes 2009 (also on view at The Hammer) and an animation titled OMG BFF LOL that can be experienced online here.* * *
In the images in White’s series, both figures are blossoming into womanhood, though each along a different path. As observers, however, we have been taught to view the subjects in much the same way: with sheer terror.
For just as the original 1950s Invasion of the Body Snatchers warned of Communism’s impending doom, and stories of men with hooks were concocted to frighten young girls from riding in cars with boys, so often have Hollywood summer comedies acted as cautionary tales for the male who would cast his desire toward either the pubescent or transgendered woman. Because in the right skirt or the right application of makeup, each has proved alluring to our hero—or more frequently, his best man, whose idea it was to move the bachelor party to Tijuana.
So while, socially speaking, White’s subjects may represent a threat to our libido, his photos present only their innocence, and hint very strongly at a sense of our own “guilt.”
A 1993 portrait photo of then-supermodels (right to left) Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Lauren Hutton, Beverly Johnson, Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell. (Frank Micelotta / Getty Images Entertainment)
By Monika Evstatieva
Fashion Week is over and I am officially over it, too.
Fourteen years ago, I was a teenager and obsessed with models. My friends and I were in love with Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista. We exercised to their fitness videos, dyed our hairs to match their hair color, hung posters of them on our walls and dreamed of looking like them when we grew up. They were our idols and the muses of designers like Valentino, Versace and Yves Saint Laurent.
Now, fast-forward to the present. The models of today do not look anything like those grand ladies. I wonder why? The IT girls of today look awfully alike, as if they were manufactured in bulk by the same company and distributed at a reduced rate to a global market.
For instance ...
Models present creations by Dutch fashion designer Josephus Thimister during the spring-summer 2010 haute couture collection shows in Paris. (Francois Guillota / AFP/Getty Images)
What does today's supermodel look like? Here is the checklist:
1. White and preferably pale.
2. Skinny, almost painfully so.
3. No butt
4. No breasts
I am certain the models themselves are simply conforming to these standards created by the industry. These girls are just working tirelessly to fit impossible clothing sizes that don't fit very many real women.
And don't get me started on the photo spreads in the fashion magazines. Arms and legs twisted in painful-looking poses, the girls lying on cold surfaces looking drugged or as if they'd been choked - blue lips and distorted ankles. That's artsy, some say. But, I can't even see the clothes.
It is no wonder models have disappeared from the covers of Vanity Fair, Vogue and Cosmopolitan -- replaced by celebrities. They sell more. But why? Maybe, it is because despite the plastic surgeries celebrities still look more like ordinary people than the models. And many celebrities do have curves.
Designers like to say their models are blank canvases that they paint on. I am ok with the canvas part. But BLANK? No woman ever wants to be called that. Ever.
Like I said, I'm over it. And I hope teenaged girls nowadays never get into it.